1995 Integra GSR
Suspension
Koni Yellow single-adjustable shocks
Ground Control coilovers (0800.250.400 front, 0700.250.500 rear)
Skunk2 camber kit
22mm ITR rear sway bar with BSQ mounting kit
Energy Suspension polyurethane front suspension bushings
This is my third spring/shock combo so far. Bought the car with the stock suspension. After a few autocrosses, I decided to upgrade to KYB AGX shocks and H&R OE Sport springs (summer '00). I installed the rear sway bar from an Integra Type R as well, which helped immensely. About three years later I switched to the Koni/GC combo, and added the camber kit to get more camber for my race tires. Due to autocross classing rules, I had to remove the camber kit as soon as I added other parts that were DSP legal, but not STS legal. Took me from about -2.8° camber up front to about -0.9°. :-( The stock bushings were replaced at about 125k, and most of them were pretty much shot. The poly is a lot stiffer, and the car feels more stable going over bumps now. I think the only original rubber left up front is in the endlinks, which really just need to be replaced with solid pieces. The current setup feels like it's near/at the limits of the Konis damping ability, but otherwise it's nice. The car is very flat in turns, but a bit too stiff for what I would consider a comfortable street setup. I miss the camber I once had, but my street tires should wear a little better now (I always had problems keeping it near zero toe when I had lots of camber), and there's not much I can do about it within the rules anyway, until I feel like having some offset bushings made. The motivation to do that is kind of low right now. ;-)
AEM cold air intake RSR stainless steel header with ceramic coating Energy Suspension polyurethane motor mount inserts Exedy Organic clutch (disc, pressure plate) Fidanza flywheel
The intake was one of my first mods, installed at the same time as the KYB/H&R suspension. I didn't get a chance to dyno the car in the stock configuration, but it certainly made it feel faster (quite possibly because it just sounded so much cooler). The header was a Christmas present ('03) - just about all of my friends pitched in to get it for me. It belonged to another local Integra autocrosser. In June '05 I started to get an exhaust leak that just sounded terrible, and it turned out that the bracket that attaches the header to the car near the cat had broken off, leaving a gaping hole in the header (see here, here, and heree). That's fixed now, so it should be good for at least a little while again. I didn't feel the gains from this that I felt from the intake, but keep in mind that I'm still on the stock exhaust. When that gets replaced, I would hope that everything will be working together to make a difference. The motor mount inserts were purchased simply because I had three broken mounts, and the inserts were only $30. The engine barely moves now, but they transmit a LOT of vibration to the cabin. It's not quite as noticable now, but anyone else that gets in the car notices it. The clutch and flywheel were installed in July '05. The old clutch was believed to be factory original, and removed with 135k on it. There was still a decent amount of material left, IMO. I bet it could have gone to 150k, grudgingly. The new clutch weighs just a bit less than the old worn clutch, around 12 lbs. The new flywheel is significantly lighter than stock at just over 8 lbs, down from 19ish. The effect of the lighter flywheel is definitely noticeable around town, with revs dropping a lot faster at shifts, and there's better throttle response in the first few gears. I think it's a bit easier to rev match in downshifts now, and the car just seems generally more willing to rev faster and higher.
Wheels & Tires
Street: stock '95 GSR wheels with 205/50-15 Falken Ziex tires Autocross: Rota RB 13x8 wheels with Kumho Ecsta V700 235/45-13 tires
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I think the stock wheels are fairly nice, so those are staying. The street tires are cheap and they don't suck. I finally switched from my 15" Rotas to these, and what a difference. An extra 30mm of tire on each corner, another 1.5" of wheel width, and an overall diameter that's about 2" shorter than stock. Acceleration is much better now, but 2nd gear tops out around 57 or 58, rather than about 66. The wheels barely clear the brakes (rocks get stuck between the wheel and caliper), and while they're not the ligtest 13x8 out there at around 12 lbs, they're only $400 a set. I also know that if you find another set of 13" wheels that cheap, they won't look this good. ;-) The first time I ran with this combo, the car was lowered maybe just a bit more than an inch, and I got a little rubbing on the front fenders. Raising the front up a little at a corner weighting session fixed that, and now it's not an issue. Really, as much as I like them, I don't know why I don't have any better pictures of them. Sad.
Other
OMP rear strut tower bar Porterfield R4S front pads Skunk2 short shifter
The strut tower bar seemed like a good idea at the time. It was cheap and looked pretty sturdy (which it is). I don't think it makes much of a difference though, and for inconvenience of having it in trunk all the time (gets in the way occasionally), it's not worth it. If you're going to get a rear strut tower bar though, get this one. The fit is absolutely perfect, and I think it should be a much stiffer bar than the ones that have bends in them (as such, it requires cutting a bit of the interior trim). The pads are nice, much improved over stock I think. I just wish they were a bit cheaper.